8 Things To Check Before Buying A Used Car
There are a number of key things to check before buying a used car. The process is not without its pitfalls and can be tricky to navigate if you’re not sure what to look for. To help you steer clear of any lemons and to make sure that you get a good deal, we’ve put together a “buying a used car checklist” - so that you can drive away in confidence.
1. Where To Look
Sellers of cars (otherwise known as dealers or traders) fall into several categories. Here is a list of them, from typically cheapest to most expensive.
The important thing to remember is that while franchised traders can offer more post-sales support, in general, a larger company equates to more overheads - and a higher price.
- Driveway traders
- Independent garages
- Franchised dealers
Alternatively, you can buy used cars at auction or online (the RAC’s approved dealer network has some recommendations). Each has their pros and cons: auction provides the opportunity to make a quick purchase (albeit under pressure).
If you buy online, you may be contracted to buy even if the car is not completely as expected when you come to see it in person (e.g a slightly different colour).
Privately-bought cars can be cheaper than those purchased at a dealership, however, some sellers may overvalue them - and you’ll have fewer buyer’s rights.
2. Beware Dodgy Dealers
While purchasing from a driveway dealer might seem like a good idea, it’s worth keeping in mind that dealers or garages tend to be more thorough in terms of inspecting and offering a decent warranty (typically 6-12 months).
Buying at the cheaper end of the scale can save you money in the short term - but it could result in a need for repairs further down the line if the vehicle has not been properly checked. To protect your buyer’s rights, ask as many questions as possible and ensure the vehicle is accurately described.
3. Your Rights
Section 75 of the Road Traffic Act 1988 states that no one can see a motor vehicle or trailer in a condition deemed unroadworthy.
By law, all traders must also be compliant with the Consumer Rights Act (meaning that if your vehicle is deemed not to be of “satisfactory quality” or unfit for purpose, the owner is entitled to a refund, replacement or repair.
Your right to reject a vehicle can only take place within the first 30 days of ownership. After this your rights vary depending on the delivery date to the vehicle - and if it is subject to a finance or lease agreement, your options vary again:
- Within 30 days of delivery: a full refund - or if preferred, repair and replacement within a reasonable timeframe and without causing inconvenience.
- 31st day to six months - repair or replacement from the trader. The assumption here is that the fault was present at the time of purchase, therefore the trader would have to prove that you caused the fault since buying, if they are in disagreement.
- Between 6 months and up to 6 years: if you experience a fault that you can prove was present at the time of delivery, you may be entitled to a replacement or repair.
If repairs by the trader do not fix the problem you have up to the end of the six month period to reject the vehicle and claim a refund (which can be reduced as a result of your fair use). Alternatively, you can keep the vehicle in exchange for a fair price reduction.
Beyond the six month period, the burden of proof is reversed - which means you would need to show the vehicle was defective at the time of delivery. After six years (five years in Scotland) you would not be entitled to any legal remedy.
In cases where all or part of the purchase was made by credit card, you may be able to seek redress from your provider, as they can be jointly responsible for any issues with your vehicle under The Consumer Credit Act 1974.
If you find fault with your vehicle and are unable to find a resolution with your trader, the next step is to send them a ‘letter before action’. It's also worth noting that if you purchased a car privately, you may have less protection.
4. What To Look For
Here is a list of things to check before buying a used car:
- Inflation and adequate tread on the tyres - 1.6mm is the legal minimum.
- Dents, scratches and kerbing.
- Gaps and/or colour differences between the panels: a sign of a poor repair after a crash.
- Other crash signs such as ripples in the bodywork, missing trim or number plates missing the supplier’s name.
- Proper levels of all fluids including oil - check there are no leaks under the bonnet or body.
- A milky substance under the oil cap - this can be a sign of coolant mixing with oil, which means the head gasket may have failed.
- The warning light switching off when the engine starts (if the car has ABS).
- Functional electronics, including windows and radio.
- Chips or cracks in the windscreen (if they’re in the driver’s eyeline, the car could fail its MOT).
- Upholstery, for stains, tears or odd smells that could be difficult to get rid of. The condition of the interior can also be an indicator of how accurate the mileage is.
- The locks and windows work properly.
- A spare wheel and accessories such as a jack and adapter.
- Wear and tear that is consistent with mileage.
- An engine that starts the first time.
- Running order and working condition of the vehicle (to see whether the car has been “clocked” - a vehicle inspection by a professional mechanic is advisable for this).
- Dashboard lights that are functioning properly.
Some issues can be deal-breakers - but some (such as minor scratches) are repairable - just use them as part of the negotiation to bring the price down.
5. Document Checks
Part of your “buying a used car checklist” should also include asking to see the following documents:
- MOT certificate - to check for roadworthiness.
- V5C Check - as proof of ownership.
- Tax And Insurance
- HPI (hire purchase investigation) - to see the general history of the vehicle.
6. The Test Drive
On the test drive, you will need to check:
- Whether the steering pulls the car too far to the left or right.
- The clutch to see whether the engine revs without the car speeding up (this can be a sign of a worn clutch).
- Smooth gear changes.
- Effective brakes.
- For any odd noises from the engine and transmission or smoke from the exhaust.
- The temperature gauge - and whether it’s possible to start the car from cold.
- The suspension works properly - no unusual “clunks”.
- Whether the car is comfortable to drive overall.
7. How To Get A Good Deal
Before going to view the car, find out how it compares to others on the market (keep in mind trade sales may be more expensive than private ones). From this, set a budget and stick to it.
Avoid being too aggressive in your negotiations. Instead, try to view them as a challenge - take a look at the car with the seller and highlight any issues you’ve noticed.
If you feel the car is overpriced, make an offer - and prepare to walk away if the seller isn’t willing to change.
Avoid buying from a private seller publicly (view it at their home instead so you can check the V5 keeper’s document matches) or being pressured into a purchase. If you’re not totally sure - walk away.
Your seller may make a counteroffer - if purchasing from a dealer, you might be able to receive some free extras if money off is not possible, such as a full tank of fuel.
8. Payment Methods
Before transferring funds, make sure you are completely certain you want to buy and make sure you have researched the seller thoroughly, asking them for a receipt as proof of purchase.
The best payment method depends on the value of the car - avoid cash as it can be difficult to track - especially for higher-priced vehicles. Instead, use a trackable method of payment.
If using cheques, the seller will want the funds to clear before they close the deal. Instead, you can transfer online or by phone, use a banker’s draft (this requires a fee).
If purchasing from a dealer, you may be able to buy on credit (this also typically includes a fee). Many offer finance, however rates on used cars tend not to be as competitive as taking out a personalised loan.
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